Tutorial McEar

Do it yourself...... this is how it works

We will show you step by step how it works and deliver the material from our webshop.

The order numbers are shown in brackets.

The negativ form:

•Dipping wax (8030)

•Agar-Agar (8036)

•Cuff form (8030)


Fix the impression with a paper clip. Melt the dipping wax in a tin can



Liquefy dipping wax and cool to approx. 70°C/160°F


Swivel impression briefly in wax


Remove impression and remove paper clip



Apply wax drops


Glue on impression


Put on the ring

Liquefy agar-agar and cool to 45°C/110°F. Fill mould. Allow to cool at room temperature for approx. 2 hours


Shell construction:

Light hardened acrylic (8085)

Fill the negative mould with light-curing acrylic. Place the cover of the cuff form inverted on the filling side, here must not allow UV light to penetrate.
Place the negative mould under UV light and turn it while doing so. A wall thickness of approx. 1.5 mm should be achieved.
Pour out excess material and irradiate again with UV light. The poured material can be reused
Clean the surfaces with surface cleaner (8041) or alcohol.


Construction inside

2,3 or 4-way system (7044,7047,7050)
MMCX socket Longpin (7202) or MMCX socket Shortpin (7204)
optional damper (7100)
Kit acoustical tubes (8020)

Inserting the MMCX socket
Drill hole for MMCX socket. Glue the MMCX socket together. The adhesive surfaces are on the following drawing marked in red.
Important: The MMCX sockets are connected to the connection cables.
Please put the earmoulds in the ear first
and then mark the hole.


Insertion of dampers (optional)
Damper (7100) or acoustic resistors prevent peaks and smooth the frequency response (see diagram)

Hochpass-Tiefpass320,680,1000 and 1500 Ω reduce acoustic peaks. 3300 and 4700 Ω serve as low-pass filters.


Preparation of the acoustic tubes (Kit acoustic tubes)
In the case of a 3 or 4-way system, insert the damper (optional) into the turnout or, in the case of a 2-way system, into an approx. 5 mm long tube with a diameter of 3 mm.
Glueing of the Ø 2mm tubes to the turnout (red marked areas with
Apply adhesive and insert approx. 1mm. Cut the tubes to approx. 80mm.
With the 2-way system, the length of the tube on the driver side should not exceed 4 mm. The total length of the surface should also be about 80mm.
Without a damper, only the Ø 2mm tube is needed for the 2-way system, with the 3 or 4-way system, only the turnout needs to be glued.


Sticking to the drivers
Glue the drivers to the sound tubes. The contact points are marked in red. Thin adhesive must be applied to the driver.
The transition from the drivers to the sound tubes must be tight.


Inserting into the earmould
Insert the driver into the earmoulds with the attached tubes. Cut off the end of the tube slightly obliquely so that they can be passed through the
bore hole.


Soldering of drivers and MMCX sockets



Insertion of cerumen filters and filter sockets (optional)
Cerumen filter (2005)
Filter sockets (2008)


Test and fix the drivers
Check the nearly finished Inears for function. Fix the drivers with a small dot of superglue in the earmold.
Be careful not to bend the sound tubes.

Casting or provided with a faceplate.

We do not advise against casting.

Light-curing acrylic (8085)
Faceplate (4444)
Build a hollow mould from plasticine to fix the earmoulds. The border
must be horizontal in each direction.
Fill the earmoulds with light-curing acrylic to the brim.
Glueing of a faceplate.
Sand off excess material.



Light-curing lacquer (8042)

Otoplastics can be smoothed easily with a small file and very fine-grained abrasive paper, but the surface remains matt.
Clean the surfaces with surface cleaner or alcohol. By applying a light-curing varnish, a glossy finish is achieved,
almost scratch-hard surface, free of residual monomers, achieved